Samarkand to mark its 2750th Anniversary in 2007

2500th Anniversary of Bukhara and Khiva, 2700th Anniversary of Shahrisabz and Karshi, 2000th Anniversary of Margilan city were significantly marked in Uzbekistan. Indissoluble continuation of such noble work was the Resolution of Uzbek President on preparations and holding 2750th Anniversary of Samarkand city.

During archeological analysis in Samarkand exact data about the age of the city was established by authoritative organizations of the world.

Samarkand is one of the most ancient, unique cities not only in our country, but also in whole world. The city prospered during Amir Temur`s epoch. Large-scale creative works were implemented, uncountable set of constructions, mosques and caravan-sheds, bridges, gardens were constructed.

In 1996 on the eve of celebrations of 660th Anniversary of Amir Temur, Samarkand city was awarded with Amir Temur order on the Decree of the President of Uzbekistan Islam Karimov.

General plan for development of Samarkand until 2025 had been developed. Presently large-scale building and reconstruction works being held on the basis of the plan, which radically changes appearance of the city.

History of Samarkand

Samarkand is situated in the valley of the river Zarafshan. It is the second largest city of Uzbekistan and is of the same age as the city of Babylon or Rome. The history of Samarkand is about 2750 years old and has witnessed a lot of upheavals during the times of Alexander the Great, the Arabic Conquest, Genghis-Khan Conquest and Amir Temur. Majestic and beautiful city Samarkand has a marvelous and attractive power. Poets and historians of the past called it "Rome of the East, The beauty of sublunary countries, The pearl of the Eastern Moslem World". Its advantageous geographical position in Zarafshan valley put Samarkand to the first place among cities of the Central Asia.

There are cities which centuries-old history embodies the history of whole nation and countries, reflecting the way passed by many generations. Such is Samarkand - one of the most ancient cities in the world.

Samarkand history goes deep into thousand years. Archeological finds and annalistic proceedings of eyewitnesses and ancient historians allowed to establish with full reliability that a man had been living on the territory of modern city many thousand years ago B.C.

Special advantageous geographical location, comparatively cool climate, abundance of natural springs with fine water, “obi rahmat”-“mercy water”, nearness of mountains with large wild fowl, flowing near Zarafshan river - all these always provided favorable conditions for human settlings in that area, where strong walls, castles, majestic buildings and temples of Samarkand raised some centuries ago B.C.

“Eden of Ancient East”, “Precious Pearl of Islam World”, “Rome of East”, “Rui Zamin”-“Face of Earth” - with such magnificent names poets, historians, medieval geographers of Iran, India, China, Byzantium, Egypt called Samarkand.

Even though of such magnificent description Samarkand saw many sites of fire and destructions, which left their sign in history.
During centuries Samarkand was gained by different nomadic and half nomadic generations, which always were destroying, sacking, and leaving ruins after them.

Samarkand saw three the largest tragedies.

• The first one is related to the time of Aleksandr Macedonian’s gains in 329 year BC; the city was fully destroyed, citizens were exterminated. After reconstruction of the city there was a development of different crafts, the east and Greek cultures mixed together, and this left its sign in the history of Samarkand.

• The second tragedy is related to 8th Century, when Arabs were gaining the Central Asia. Stating from 8th Century Islam became main religion in Central Asia. Before that time there were different religions in Central Asia but the main was zoroastrism. And only Arabs with sword and fire, destroying people brought new religion Islam to Central Asia. And till now it is still main religion here.

• Third tragedy is related to 13th Century, when Chingizhan was gaining the Central Asia. When the city was destroyed, Samarkand ame to the new decline. And only in 14th Century when Amir Temur came to the power Samarkand was reconstructed. 14-15th Centuries are called the Renaissance because Amir Temur brought scientists from each aggressive crusade. In particular he was assisted in development of different sciences in Central Asia.

Samarkand reached the highest level of development only during Amir Temur’s government, though he is described as cruel gainer in history. All this was happened because during 35 year he brought with him mathematicians, astronomers, architectures, and musicians from his aggressive campaigns to his country.

Now Samarkand like most cities of Central Asia is a city divided into two parts: old and new ones. New part is an administrative part of the city where industrial and cultural centers, high educational institutions are situated. There are 5 institutes in Samarkand: medical, agricultural, architectural, cooperative, institute of foreign languages, and also State University that has 10 faculties.

Old part this is part where historical monuments, shops, small school are situated. Our entire excursion will be in the old part of the city.

Population of Samarkand is about 500 thousands. This is multinational city, more that 100 nations live in Samarkand. Samarkand takes second place in Uzbekistan by number of population and territory.

REGISTAN SQUARE

During centuries Registan Square was the center of Samarkand. The word Registan means “sand place”. There was a river running there many ages ago, before building the first Madrassah on the square. Years passed, the river dried out and left lots of sank there, that was the first place where the first Madrassah was built in the beginning of the 15th Century and named Registan square. As the Madrassah was first built, all the holidays, parades, festivals and Sunday bazaars took place.

The ensemble consists of three Madrassahs: Ulugbek Madrassah (15th Century), Sher–Dor Madrassah (17th Century) and Tilla-Kari Madrassah (gold covered) (17th Century).

The Ulugbek Madrassah was built by the Ulugbek’s order and guidance. It lasted only three years from 1417 to 1420. When the Madrassah was constructed, Ulugbek gave lectures on mathematics and astronomy till his death.

Two years later, the ruler of Samarkand Yalangtush Bahadur ordered to build the copy of the Madrassah, and the second Sher-Dor Madrassah was built opposite it. The only difference was that it had two more winter teaching halls, but the main structure was the same as in Ulugbek Madrassah.

Several years later, the same ruler of Samarkand ordered the third Tilla-Kari Madrassah. It’s outward is the same as those two other Madrassahs, but coming in you’ll see a one story building. To make the architectural ensemble, the architecture made two floors on the outside but only one inside. Madrassah was always built by one project – four-cornered yard with four terraces and cells along the whole perimeter. The main entrance was always locked with lattice and two other entrances were used by purpose. The doors in cell were always low because “Islam” means “obedience”, that is why everyone who entered or went out of cell always had to bow, it was like greeting and wishing health to everyone.

Only Tilla-Kari Madrassah was bult like medresse, but was used mostly as mosque; just looking at minarets can see this, Tilla-Kari has low minarets to call people to pray.

In 17th Century Tilla-Kari mosque and Madrassah was the biggest mosque in Samarkand. Right up to 19th Century Madrassah and Madrassah-mosque was used by purpose, and only from the beginning of 20th Century till now they serve as monuments.


AMIR TEMUR MAUSOLEUM

Amir Temur Mausoleum was built in 1404 for Temur’s grandson Muhammad Sultan. He had to become heir apparent of throne after Temur, but in 1404 he died and Amir Temur ordered to build big mausoleum for his loved grandson. In 1405 Amir Temur died in Otrar city and his sons decided to move his body and bury him near his favorite grandson. From that time this mausoleum was called “burial-vault of timurids”. Here two sons of Temur were buried - Shahruh and Miranshah, also second grandson Ulugbek, spiritual director of Temur Muslim sheikh from Medin - Mir Said Baraka and some Shah-Hodja.

Amir Temur Mausoleum consists of several parts: yard of Muhammad Sultan ensemble, to the right of mausoleum hanaka (the place where Muslims can pray), to the left is medresse and in the center the mausoleum itself decorated from each side with minarets. Unfortunately neither the medresse nor hanaka were saved. In 1996 it was big reconstruction here when Samarkand celebrated 660 years from Amir Temur’s birthday. Original design is saved inside. Decorators only drew on original thin layer of paint.

Every headstone is made from marble, only Temur’s headstone is from nephritis, it was brought by order of Ulugbek and put on grave of Temur. All headstones in upper mausoleum are saved very well, but in lower because of floods almost all of them were destroyed. Lattice that set off all headstones was made in 15th Century from marble by Ulugbek order.

All headstones were opened in June 1941. There is a legend that related to this event. Before opening three old men told scientists not to disturb ashes of dead, especially Temur’s ashes, because by opening his grave they could restore the spirit of war. But scientists had goal to know whether Temur was beheaded, and Temur was lame, because in history Temur is mentioned as Tamerlan-“iron lame man”. After opening sarcophagus scientists saw grave where skeleton of Temur was. By analysis of skull bone anthropologist Gerasimov made first portrait of Temur and his entire dynasty. Scientists concluded that he was really lame because his one leg was shorter than another. They also established that Ulugbek was beheaded. His skull was near skeleton. Temur’s skeleton was examined in Leningrad, and then all remains were returned back to the grave. Two days later World War Two began and many citizens were saying that it started because of opening Temur’s grave.

BIBI HANIM

Its construction was started in 1399, after successful campaign of Temur to India. Mosque was under construction during 5 years. Its structure was finished in 1404. By Temur’s idea Bibi Hanim mosque had to eclipse all that he had seen before in other countries. Architects, artists, masters and craftsmen from many East countries were involved in construction. Two hundred stonemasons from Azerbaijan, Iran, Hindustan and other countries were working inside the mosque, and five hundred workers in mountains near Pendjikent were working under production and trimming of stones and sending it to Samarkand. Masters and craftsman gathered and drive together from all parts of the world put into construction their traditions and experience.

Building was not finished when Temur went to one of his new campaigns. After he came back he went to see new mosque.

Grandiose buildings occupied rectangular yard with size 130x102 meter. On his west side towered the maim mosque, on north and south sides were small mosques. Spacious inside yard was covered by marble flagstones and enclosed with sheltered gallery for pilgrims. The entrance to the court was decorated as high portal with two round minarets that were 50 meters in height. Font of cathedral mosque was also designed with grandiose portal with two minarets. The wall of all buildings outside was decorated with multicolored glaze bricks, which made intricate geometric ornamental design and religious aphorisms. Magnificent and rich decoration of inside buildings consisted of majolica mosaic, carved marble...

ULUGBEK’S OBSERVATORY

Among historical monuments of Samarkand observatory takes particular place, constructed by Ulugbek in 1428-1429 on one of the hills on height, at the bottom of Chupanata altitude. By Babur’s words, which saw the observatory, it was three-storied covered with beautiful glazed titles building of round form 46 meters in diameter, 30 meters in height. In the main hall huge instrument was placed for observations of Moon, Sun, and other stars of the vault of heaven. Observatory was unique construction for its time.

The basis of observatory was giant goniometer (vertical circle), radius of circle was equal 40,212 meters, and the length of arc was 63 meters. The main instrument-sextant-was oriented with amazing exactness by line of meridian from south to north. Test establishments of modern astronomers Kastalsk and Sheglov are the evidence to it. Sizes of the main instrument, lucky construction, scientific knowledge of Ulugbek and his companion-in-arms provided amazing exactness of astronomic observations.

Contribution of creation astronomic catalog-“Zidji-Kuragani”, known as “Star tables of Ulugbek” belongs to Ulugbek. Whole galaxy of great scientists was working on them for a long period and finished them to 1437.

“Everything that observation and experience had known about planets movement, is delivered for keeping to this book”-Ulugbek was writing. In this work basics of astronomic observations are summarized, made by east scientists.

Exactness of observations of Samarkand astronomers is amazing because they were made without help of optical instruments, with unaided eye. Astronomic tables contents coordinates of 1018 stars. His catalog did not lose its value in our days. With amazing exactness made the calculation of the length of star year, which by Ulugbek’s calculation is equal to 365 days 6 hours 10 minutes 8 seconds. Actual length of star year by modern data is 365 days 6 hours 9 minutes 9,6 seconds. Thus the mistake is only less that one minute.

After Ulugbek’s death observatory was destroyed and robbed by religious fans. Only in 1908 archaeologist Vyatkin found first document where location of observatory was mentioned. Unfortunately only underground part of sextant and basis of the building were saved. By found documents scientists made the model of the observatory.

Remarkable scientific center was destroyed, valuable library was plundered, and scientists were chased away. Sheikhs announced the hill as the place of grave “Forty virgins” and built here mausoleum, place of pilgrimage, bringing big profits to hypocrites. Like this Samarkand priesthood was trying to suppress in people member of torch of science-Ulugbek and his observatory.

AFRASIAB MUSEUM

Afrasiab is the name of mythical king Turan and one of the legend heroes of poem of great famous poet Firdousi “Shahname”. Under this name is known the place where ancient Samarkand was situated.

Now Afrasiab is a huge gathering of lifeless hills sided with modern city from north side. But distant past life was boiling here. Because of this explains steadfast interest of our scientists to Agrosiab.

Archeological findings of Afrosiab were started at the end of last century, after joining Central Asia to Russia, with digs made by mayor Borzenkov in 1874 and lieutenant colonel Krestovskiy in 1833.

On the site of ancient settlement were found wonderful example of poured and not poured earthenware ornamental crockery, many terracotta statuettes, fragments of ossuariys, things from glass, different work tools, women decorations, coins, and etc. Archeological findings give clear image about way of life of ancient Samarkand during many centuries of its existence.

It is proved that settling of city type on Afrosiab existed earlier two thousand and half years ago. The city was enclosed with strong defensive walls inside of which where citadel-shahrisatn, cathedral mosque, dwelling houses and craft workshops. The territory of city was crossed by straight paved streets and divided into blocks-guzars.

The museum is built on the territory of Afrosiab. Where gathered archeological findings of 4th century AC till 13th century AC.
Several buildings 6-7th centuries were opened. Their walls are decorated highly artistic wall paintings made with glue colors on loam stucco.

SHAKHI-ZINDA

On south-east slope of Afrosiab is situated one of the notable architectural ensemble of Samarkand-Shakhi-Zinda necropolis. It consists of 11 mausoleums, built on to each other during 14-15th centuries in series.

Entrance portal Shakhi-Zinda completing all ensembles is the latest construction. Inscription under entrance says: “This magnificent building established by Abdulazizhan, Ulugbek’s son, Shahruh’s son, Amir Timur-Kuragan’s son, in 883.” (1434 AC)
All ensemble divides into three parts: Entrance chartak (consisting from mosque of hudjra, summer mosque, Davlyat Kushbegi mosque and mausoleum that had for a long time the name Kazi-Zade Rumi).

Middle Chartak (consisting of: mausoleums Amir-Zade, Amir-Husein, Shadi-Mulk, Shirin-Bibi-aka, Octahedron, Usto Ali, Nameless, Burunduk, Hudjra, Kusama ibn-Abbasa mosque, Ziarathani and Kusam ibn-Abbas mausoleum.)
Upper chartak (consists of: Tuman-aka mosque, Tuman-aka mausoleum, nameless mausoleum 1360-1361, Hodja Ahmad mausoleum.)

Going magnigient upstairs of Shakhi-Zinda and entering to the cool twilight of narrow corridor, visitor make kind of journey into the heart of time. The farther it is the more ancient buildings are. The first mausoleum from the left was thought as mausoleum of Timur’s friend and teacher astronomer Kazi-Zade Rumi.

But in 60-70th years after opening graves scientits found out that two women were buried here. It is assumed that this was Timur’s wet-nurse and her daughter.

Going up by 36 footsteps of old stairs you find yourself in the open gallery. Here from the left and right are mausoleums burial-vast of closest relatives of Timur and confidant of court.

First mausoleums from the left and right Emir-Zade mausoleum and Emit-Husin mausoleum belong to confidant people of his court.

Next mausoleum from the left belongs to Timur’s niece Shadi-Mulk aka. She died when she was very young that is why Timur ordered to build mausoleum of the most elegant form, to show beauty and youth of his niece. Timur’s sister Shirin-Bibi aka was managing the construction of this mausoleum. After finishing of this construction, she ordered to build mausoleum for herself against her niece’s mausoleum. Both these mausoleums were built in 1371-1373 years.

Going a little bit farther we see mausoleum of original form. This nameless mausoleum was build by architectures from Azerbaijan. One detail that differentiates this mausoleum from others is that entrance to crypt where graves are situated goes to central side street, and all other mausoleums have entrance behind the mausoleum.

Next row of mausoleums is called nameless becoase all these mausoleums were built in 11th century and during Chigiz-Han’s invation almost all of then were destroyed. Now you can see onle small saved remains from mausoleums of 1th century. One of the nameless mausoleums is sometimes called Usto Ali Nesefi y the name of architect.

Next mausoleum has name of commander-in-chief of Timur’s army-Emir Burunduk.

Farther goes the most aincient ensemble of all necropolises –ensemble of Kusam ibn-Abbas. This is the oldest building of 11th century. The name of entire necropolis is related to the name of Kusam ibn-Abbas. Kusam ibn Abbas means “alive king”.

In 8th century during one of the sermon Kusam ibn-Abbas was beheaded, but because he was holy, he said that a man dieing on the way to God couldn’t be killed. He took his head put it underarm, and descended to shaft, where hi is living till now. The mausoleum was built in 11th century, and cupola was rebuild in 14th century by order of Amir Temur.

And in the last yard three mausoleums are situated: unknown mausoleum( from the right), Tuman-aka mosque (from the left), Hodja Ahmad mausoleum. All these mausoleums were built in 14th century. By looking at decoration of two mausoleums nameless and Hodja Ahmad it is possible to say that they were built by architectures from Samarkand, main colors used by them -white, blue, and dark blue- reside to architectural school of Samarkand. While in Tuman-aka mausoleum green, yellow, black, and red colors were used. To the left of mausoleums is situated the entrance to the biggest Muslim cemetery built in 9th century and used till present time.